In mid-June 1997, a group of five, including myself, went for a mixed rock-glacier trip on Columbia Icefield (Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada). We arrived at the Icefield Centre, which was a modern chalet by the Icefield Parkway, and moved up Atabasca Glacier where we had our first bivouac. Next morning we ascended the glacier that led us onto Columbia Icefield. There were three icefalls on the glacier, not too technical to climb through in a few hours.

The icefield was flat and smooth, very few crevasses, ideal for skiing. It was also getting quite hot towards noon, so the snow didn't hold after 10am. The temperature in the tents was as high as +30 degrees C sometimes.

Two mountains were ascended, Mt. Kitchener (3511 m) and Mt. North Twin (3689 m). Mount Kitchener was an easy walk over its south slope, crampons weren't necessary, although the summit itself was a treacherous one with its northern side full of cornices that could break off anytime. Be careful on the edge. Snow Dome was a possibility but it was not a demanding ascent so we left it out.

Mount North Twin was a long steep slope taken on from north-east, some huge crevasses were visible on the way up. There were at least three summits with the difference in height of some 10-30 meters, the highest being the farthest north. On the map, there was yet another summit, a bit lower and farther north, but we haven't made to that one. Beware of cracks, the summits were all cracked ice. I was barely rescued from one of the crevasses by my brave ropemate Taras Kolodyazhny.

We attempted to climb Mount Columbia (3745 m), of which I got a beatiful picture, but raging snowstorm and whiteout kept us pinned down in our tents for two days within 1 km from the summit. One could hardly go take a leak in such a weather without having to be tied into an anchor:) All we did was eating and digging the tents out of tons of snow. Eventually, we had to turn back due to lack of time. Well, there is always next time for those who make it back...

After coming down the same way we had come up, we spent a few days in pristine sub-alpine and alpine timber at 2000-2400 m. Overall, the trip was a great one, that place is worth seeing by all means, even just to try glacial water! right off the glacier. We found the "Columbia Icefield" 1:50,000 topo map to be a good one. It's available from a gift store (closed at night) inside the Icefield Centre. Email me if you need technical details of the ascents or any other info.

Click here for the pictures of the trip. We are also planning our next trip to French Alps (Parc National de la Vanoise and the Mont Blanc range) and South America (Ecuador, Peru, Chile?..) sometimes this year. Several routes and summits are being considered. So: don't hesitate to email me if you

• have the same kind of trip in mind and are looking for partners; or
• would like to advertise with us/sponsor the trips/test gear. We always welcome good ideas!

Last modified: February 8, 1998